Thinking way too long about the subtitle RSS 2.0
 Saturday, November 24, 2007

Under ordinary circumstances, all three of my blog readers know that I don't like playing blue. Yet sometimes, it is the only possible response.

This is to the 1998 Honda Civic Headlight Replacement Technical Writer:

You Suck.

I'm no mechanic, but I have replaced my car battery, and I'm generally aware of what goes on under the hood. Plus, I'm a good reader. I can follow directions. In my older cars, the bulb was encased in the complete housing. A few screws and a plug-and-play later was all it took. Not so today. All you get at the store is the actual bulb. Much smaller and easier to ship.

The following images show the 1.5 page description of how to replace a light bulb in a 1998 Honda Civic.

The instructions for headlight replacement begin on the right side of the following page. The author notes some good points to understand before tackling the job.

civic-headlight-p185

Then, it gets into the meat of the job with a full page shown in the following image.

civic-headlight-p186

As you can plainly see, at no point does the author state the following truth:

If you are reading this manual, then your best course of action is to return it to the glove box and drive to your nearest Oil Can Henry's location. Request a bulb replacement and happily pay the fee knowing that (a) you didn't have to do it (2) you didn't break anything; aka, less swearing and (iii) the delta between the cost of the bulb at the NAPA auto part store and what you paid at the shop are negligible.

And for that malfeasance, this technical writer sucks. It is my opinion that anyone replacing the driver's side headlight in a competent manner would not need to resort to the manual. For if they did, it would be a clear indication of the pain to come.

For starters, a light source for working under the hood is a good idea. I used one of these pod lights. Press the light to turn it on and off. They're small and nimble.

 Light Source

So here's what we're dealing with. The drivers side headlight sits squarely in front of the power steering reservoir. The following image shows my finger on the reservoir. Its connected by one hose on each side and is seated on a small cradle. You can already begin to see the terribly small spaces we're about to engage.

Power steering reservoir

Just from the previous photo alone, you can see how the designers failed with this bulb location on the 1998 Honda Civic. Per the instructions, I am to lift the power steering reservoir out of the cradle and push it aside so I can gain access to the bulb housing. Those two hoses that attach to the reservoir aren't too keen on movement. I finally ended up disconnecting one of the hoses and stuffing it with a rag to stop the flow of power steering fluid to my garage floor. There was quite a bit of cussing to just reach this state.

Now that I had the reservoir propped up and out of the way and the power steering spill slowed to a slow dribble, I could being the real work. The following photo shows an overhead view of the bulb housing and my light source nestled into a good crevice.

Driver side headlight

Next, I need to pinch the tabs of the bulb housing to release it. This is very important, so you would think that the book would do a good job of describing where they are and what they look like. Not so. The tabs are nearly invisible, even with great lighting. They're about the size of a small pea on each side as indicated in the following photo. Before learning this, I cracked the plastic housing on the bulb housing with the pliers. Go me!

Bulb Housing and Tabs

After the bulb housing is removed, the rubber seal and wire latch can be removed to produce the following item of grief - a blown out halogen bulb. I bought a new one at NAPA for $8.00

Expired Halogen Bulb

When you're wrestling with the wire that provides a constant pressure on the bulb housing and keeps it in place, be careful not to snap off the little plastic tab that hooks onto the wire; that's bad. Grrrrrr.....

Headlight Stabilization Wire

Finally, I drove (the other car) to the NAPA auto parts store (again) and purchased a small amount of power steering fluid. When I arrived, the very nice man behind the counter saw the section I was looking and advised me on a good brand of leak sealant. I explained that I actually wanted power steering fluid. Sizing me up accurately, the man tilted his head and asked why I wanted power steering fluid. Evidently, I didn't pass muster. I explained that I had spilled some quantity onto my garage floor when I was replacing a headlight. At that point I must have passed some threshold of the "i-know-what-i'm-doing" home mechanic or the "complete-idiot" home mechanic. He was nice enough to stop the inquiry there and saved me a little face. So for $3.75 I left the store with a some power steering fluid and a small funnel to refill the reservoir.

So, in summary, this experience was an absolute unnecessary pain in the ass. I realized the folly of my plan about one-third into the debacle and kept thinking of reasons that I should just fold up now and waltz in to the nearest Oil Can Henry's to stop the suffering. Yet, I persisted and now I have two functional headlights in my car, and one extra piece of wire in my garage.

Saturday, November 24, 2007 10:10:42 AM (Pacific Standard Time, UTC-08:00)  #    Comments [5] -
fun
Thursday, November 29, 2007 10:32:01 AM (Pacific Standard Time, UTC-08:00)
Andrew-

I have to say that your saga brought back not-so-fond memories for me of my attempt to change the headlights in my 94 Civic. Eventually the guys at the car parts store took pity on me and helped me out. Thank god they did. I pushed, I pulled, and I squeezed, and there really was no possible way that I was actually going to be successful. Stupid manual should say, "Drive car to nearest location and have THEM do it. It'll be worth $10 more."

Kimberly
Saturday, December 15, 2007 7:18:15 AM (Pacific Standard Time, UTC-08:00)
Hi,

I could not get out the rubber seal. Is it very hard to get out. I am just not getting the grip on the rubber tabs you mentioned.

Thanks,
Yogi
Yogi
Thursday, December 27, 2007 3:58:23 PM (Pacific Standard Time, UTC-08:00)
The detail in your post was right on. As a result, I removed the bracket that holds the power steering reservoir and also pulled the power steering hose from the holder on the side of the reservoir. Removing the bracket was the key -- it gave the reservoir a place to go. This gave me just enough room to work with the headlamp. After that the only tricky part was to get the bracket back into place (two bolts hold it it).

Thanks again for your post -- it was very helpful to me!
Randy
Sunday, December 30, 2007 12:49:53 PM (Pacific Standard Time, UTC-08:00)
This article helped me out. I thought I would offer a couple of suggestions for the next person who comes along.

Because of the limited space on the drivers side, I located the tiny tabs on either side of the bulb on the slightly easier to get to passenger side. I never did really see the tabs, but I just kept pressing on opposite sides of the bulb until I hit them. I put the connector back on and then I moved back over the the trouble side. Now that I knew what I was looking for, it was easy to get the connector off.

After reading the description of the power steering issue, I decided that there would probably be enough room to remove the bulb without disconnecting a hose. (there was). one hand held the reservoir away from the connector while my other hand squeezed the tabs. It came right off.

The weather seal was filthy & I had to pull on both tabs and the body here & there, but it finally gave up and cooperated also.

Then I examined the wire retainer clip & identified the hinge end (to the outside of the car), so I began playing with the other end until I squeezed it properly and got it out of the slot. Then I opened the retainer like a door, letting it swing toward the outside of the car.

the bulb came out, easily.

Then I reversed the process (be sure and keep pressing all over the weather seal to make sure it gets properly seated), tested the light, and put up the tools.

The actual time to change the bulb was less than 5 minutes (if you exclude the 2nd trip to the parts store to return the 2 bulbs they sold me, one high beam, one low bean), the time to look this web site to see if anyone else had done this successfully, and the time it took to wash my hands before handling the new bulb.
Thursday, January 24, 2008 7:59:21 AM (Pacific Standard Time, UTC-08:00)
Hey Andrew,

My 98 Civic DX Sedan's driver side (just the low beam) gave out after 204,000 miles of excellent service and I found your blog from browsing in Google. I purchased the new part from Napa for $8 this morning and I think I am a good candidate for spending only 5 minutes to successfully replace it (thanks to you and Michael Kelly).

I also purchased the "correct" center mount brake light bulb at the same time for $4. I say correct because the guy at Pep Boys gave me the wrong balb a week ago and when I took the old blown bulb out, that's when I found out the new one was the wrong one. I think I can try to squeeze the newly purchased center brake light bulb back in by reversing the take-out process but it's going to be very difficult and I don't think I am doing it properly. Is there a similar kind of tab(s?) you have to press for the center mount brake light bulb socket to come out just like the headlight bulb socket?
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